I think back to six years ago, when I was backpacking in Vietnam, I turned down the chance to try surfing. And for many years of my life, I said that I didn't like the ocean, that I wasn't a water baby and I wasn't a good swimmer. I made lots of excuses not to have fun. I never thought I'd ever try surfing in my life.
This trip to Hawaii finally gave me the chance to slowly fall in love with everything. Having the chance to attempt something again and again, in a safe environment, with lots of support, until you hit your flow and begin to attain mastery*. After nine days, I had an amazing time and felt comfortable snorkelling, skin diving and surfing. And I wish I could do it some more!**
I couldn't believe how quickly I picked up surfing! It was such a thrilling feeling, just cruising out on the surfboard and having a blast. I was standing by the second try. It helped to have a good instructor, T.; he always got me focused by asking me, "Are you ready?" and waiting for my vehement affirmation before he pushed me forward to catch a wave.
It felt good to overcome my fear and lack of confidence and leave Hawaii with surfboard rash, salt on my skin and a smile on my face.
*An amazing audiobook that I've been listening to. A must-read, whether you work in a school or an office.
**I've avoiding learning how to SCUBA. I can't believe that I passed up so many opportunities considering how many world-class dive sites I've visited throughout southeast Asia.
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